Travelogue: Memphis, Tennessee

Elvis

Elvis at Graceland

I recently visited Memphis — you know, that other music town in Tennessee. It’s a little funkier, a little dirtier. But that’s why I like it so much!

Memphis is home to Elvis Presley’s Graceland, Stax Records Museum and Sun Studio, some of the most-storied spots in all American music history. Graceland is…well, Graceland. Stax, considered the Southern equivalent to Motown, produced some of the best in soul music, including Otis Redding, Isaac Hayes, and Booker T. and the MG’s. And Sun Studio was where Presley, Johnny Cash, Jerry Lee Lewis and Roy Orbison recorded. I’d say Memphis has more than enough of its share of street cred.

I visited all three, and all the tours are fun and totally worth the price of admission.

Graceland is generally considered an American music Mecca, so of course we had to go. The King definitely had unique style with lots of glitz and glam. He even had an entire room decorated in a jungle theme, complete with green carpet on the ceiling. A lot of the tour goes through what is now a museum, and I was excited to see the clothing on display. Elvis’ sexy black leather outfit from his 1968 comeback television special is there, too.

Graceland

Graceland

Jungle Room at Graceland

Jungle Room at Graceland

1968 Comeback Special leather suit

1968 Comeback Special leather suit

Elvis' performance suits

Elvis’ performance suits

At Stax, which is now a museum housed in a replica of the original building that was torn down in 1989, you’ll find a wealth of information on the history of the Memphis Sound. The original recording studio was also recreated in this building, which is cool because the studio was a converted movie theater complete with a sloped floor that provided unique acoustics. The Hammond M3 organ that Booker T. and the MG’s recorded “Green Onions” on is here, too.

Ike and Tina Turner display at Stax

Ike and Tina Turner display at Stax

Booker T. and the MG's Hammond M3 organ

Booker T. and the MG’s Hammond M3 organ

Isaac Hayes' car

Isaac Hayes’ car

Sun Studio has an entirely different feel from Stax, mostly because it’s in its original building, which is small and intimate. If you’re a classic country and rock n’ roll music fan, then Sun in the place for you. It still operates as a working recording studio, too. And you can even pose with a microphone that Elvis used.

Sun Studio

Sun Studio

Elvis' guitar

Elvis’ guitar

Microphone Elvis used to record

Microphone Elvis used to record

See more photos from my trip on the ShopEatSleep Facebook page.

Now, let’s not forget about the food. I only had one day in Memphis, so I didn’t get to eat at many restaurants. But I did make it to Central BBQ for ribs. I visited the Central Avenue location, which has a nice patio with live music. My husband and I shared a slab, half with sauce and half without, and potato salad, green beans, macaroni and cheese, and house-made potato chips. The bark on the ribs was great, but the sides were largely forgettable, except for the chips, which had a tasty seasoning.

Slab of ribs and sides at Central BBQ

Slab of ribs and sides at Central BBQ

Whatever you do, don’t go to the Arcade Restaurant. This diner had been recommended to me, so maybe I went on an off day, but it was one of the worst dining experiences I’ve ever had. The food was terrible, and the place was not clean. Stick with the tried-and-true Waffle House, where you can get an entire meal of delicious greasy diner food for less than the price of a cocktail in Los Angeles.

Waffle House

Waffle House

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Maya Meinert

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11 2012

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